“War Fashion” from Ukrainian designers


Made in Ukraine is a global trend. The war confirmed this, because the world learned about Ukraine, albeit at a very high price. Now almost everyone wants to have at least something Ukrainian in their wardrobe, as a symbol of strength of spirit, will and indomitability. According to my personal survey, some people believe that it is not the right time to buy clothes now, while others hold the opposite opinion and claim that it is worth supporting their own manufacturer, which helps the Armed Forces with its activities and saves jobs. In times of war, this is very important.

Fashion is cyclical. We often notice that modern trends are not something new, and the feeling “I’ve seen it somewhere” arises more and more often, right? It is interesting that today’s trends are closely intertwined with the trends of the Second World War and post-war times. Then the fashion industry did not disappear, it developed. Some fashion houses still had to cease their existence, some closed temporarily. But women both then and now wanted to remain women.

In the 40s of the XX century. saved resources, abandoned natural fabrics, instead sewed clothes from acetate silk, nylon and viscose. Military clothes were transformed into civilian clothes. A bomber jacket is an example of this. It has its own interesting history, because it has a military origin. Such jackets were the clothes of pilots. Nowadays, bombers are in the closets of both teenagers and respectable ladies.

If we talk about coats, military overcoats have been known since the 19th century. They were improved and modernized to become suitable for everyday wardrobe. Such coats have probably never gone out of fashion since then. To soften the image, they were dressed with romantic dresses, which were also in trend then, as they are now.

As for dresses, floral patterns returned in the 40s: ornaments and small flowers became the main decoration of dress fabrics.

It was impossible to sew blouses and shirts from white fabric, instead snow-white cuffs and collars became relevant.

Suit, hat, gloves – this is the chic of the 1940s. As then, it is a versatile garment today. Simple lines and minimalist design – stylish and concise. In those days, trousers, often wide and shortened, came into fashion.

On modern catwalks, a suit appears every season: trousers, with skirts, various “threes”. The lack of decorative elements and the shortage of accessories in the 40s and 50s lead to the fact that the simplest buttons, sometimes covered with fabric, became a trend. Military style dictates the fashion for broad shoulders on jackets and A-line skirts.

Headwear, including hats and scarves. They were also at the peak of popularity during the world wars and in the post-war period. Often women hid their hair in hats. Such requirements were set at various productions, and we do not forget about the moment of convenience. Over time, women used handkerchiefs as scarves. Nowadays, they are often styled as jewelry, making a great accessory for a handbag or coat. By the way, it was in post-war times that short coats came into fashion. Nowadays, this is also a trend.

The opening of the military period became the popular style “military” even today. Everything was sewn in this style: various dresses, suits, coats, jackets, pants, shirts, socks and even shoes. All things were practical and functional. Dull colors dominated in the 40s and 50s. Today, such a palette is called basic: black, brown, camel, blue and khaki. Maybe it’s time to thank for the “base”?

“Being fashionable” went out of fashion both during the world wars and now. With the beginning of a full-scale war between Russia and Ukraine, we did not look in the direction of clothing stores, but adaptation took place and a woman remained a woman. The wardrobe then and now is more minimalistic and restrained than before. Garment factories mainly produced military uniforms. Deja vu, as the French say, everything is as it is now. At that time, a woman’s wardrobe consisted of three suits and several blouses for work, one dress with a jacket for the evening, as well as trousers and a jumper. If these things are combined with each other, then this is quite a number of images.

I hope that, despite all life’s difficulties, we will remain fashionable, stylish, satisfied with ourselves and life. Ukrainian designers now, more than ever, need our support. Therefore, I wish every Ukrainian young lady to be able to purchase at least one Ukrainian designer item for the fall-winter 2022/2023 season. I wish every producer to keep his business “afloat”. I believe in the Armed Forces. I believe in Ukraine. Victory to us!

Natalka Voytovych

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